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Artistic Perfumes - The Gentleman. The male elegance manual |
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Each man has his own style and there is a fragrance that goes perfectly with each style.
Simple though this rule sounds, it can cause problems when you want to choose a gift. This is how to find the right person to help you solve those problems. |
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When markets experience moments of euphoria and consumption increases, out-of-the-ordinary products, works of craftsmanship and of art, do not benefit in any substantial way, unless they have become status symbols, which is one of those things that may have a positive effect on their turnover, but will generally tend to alienate the product’s most faithful habitués. But when the sharp winds of real or presumed crisis start to blow, medium-level brands and products really feel the pinch of the reduced propensity to spend, while the top of the range seems to remain more or less immune. Hence the reasoning that the niche pays, as medium and high-end consumers are capable of saying a polite “no, thank you” to the number and variety of mass consumption products, although the high-enders would never dream of abandoning something they have “discovered” for themselves and learned to love for its quality, its originality and its refinement.
There is a part of the population that cultivates tiny particulars – those minute details that nobody else every notices, but that make all the difference – it’s a part of the population that loves a combination between originality and tradition, that proposes new styles that are capable of interpreting the classics to create new fashions. It’s the same part of the population that wants to know the whys and wherefores of materials, of the production and of the style of the objects it chooses. That part of the population is growing in number, but very slowly – by choice and not as a function of availability – so is all but oblivious to the market’s ceaseless ups and downs. They are people who know how to appreciate what they buy: they are motivated consumers whose numbers are increased by word of mouth and the secret tips passed from one to another of the aficionados with the irresistible urge to study the objects of their desire and get to know them intimately.
What these people discover gradually gains in substance and becomes a reason for them to meet and discuss with others who have discovered the same marvels. Their numbers include collectors of all kinds imaginable, cigar smokers, sommeliers, culinary cognoscenti and lovers of haute couture.
There is no shortage of objects of desire in the area of style for men: they range from ties, raincoats, fountain pens and briefcases made of quality leathers to pullovers, shoes, wristwatches and shirts.
Guided skilfully by Giancarlo Maresca, Monsieur magazine has paid a visit to these objects of masculine elegance, gathering some appetising ideas for a better understanding of the quality of products for the stylish man. Another beautifully produced aid is Bernhard Roetzel’s fine book "The Gentleman – A Timeless Fashion", ISBN: 0760762481, which reveals some small but vital secrets for appreciating these products’ qualities, with the aid of some tasteful photography.
There is also a chapter dedicated to shaving and perfumery, featuring a list of what the author considers to be the ten Eternal Essences for men. I cannot agree unreservedly with his selection, as some great names are conspicuous for their absence, including Creed, Penhaligon's, Floris, Dyptique, Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, L'Artisan Parfumeur and Annick Goutal, nor does he even mention the rebirth of Italian artistic perfumery, but what I can say is that the author has certainly identified ten important examples of how a given fragrance can be combined with a specific style. I must admit that the author does not exactly mince his words so that, despite including them among his list of Eternal Essences, he is quite uncompromising about which ones he considers to be masterpieces… and which not. His Top Ten are Z-14 by Halston, Eau Sauvage by Dior, Extract of Limes by Geo. F. Trumper, Colonia by Acqua di Parma, Polo by Ralph Lauren, Giorgio of Beverly Hills, Paco Rabanne pour homme, Vetiver by Guerlain, Grey Flannel by Geoffrey Beene, Eau d'Hemés and Knize Ten.
The brief description he gives of each of these gives a very effective idea if the ideal person to wear the fragrance. Although the author has had to simplify his selection of fragrances and pare it down to the bone, if you are already aware of the characteristics of the person to whom you want to give a perfume – maybe even yourself – you need only talk to a skilled retailer, a lover of real masterpieces, to find someone capable of recommending a perfume with plenty of character that will match the one you have in mind. If you succeed in illustrating the recipient’s profile and the retailer you turn to stocks at least the leading brands that I usually mention, your combination will almost certainly be crowned with success. The only question is… where do you find these retailers? You can write to me or contact any of the Italian distributors who teamed up with Pitti Immagine to create the second edition of Fragranze (www.pittimmagine.com/fiere/fragranze). Every one of them will certainly be capable of recommending the names of the best retailers near you. |
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Monsieur n° 33 - December 2004 |
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